Paris: Leprechauns, Mannequins, Giant Machines, Disappearing Museums

I was in Paris last week, part bidness, part personal. I stayed at the B & B le 7 near the Place de Clichy, which I recommend. The room is reasonably-sized (by Paris standards), spotless and furnished with whimsy and good taste. The bookshelves have plenty of art books in many languages, plus Lonely Planets and Guide du Routard guides, which are like French-language Lonely Planets, but cooler. Private shower and bathroom, and very friendly and patient owners. It's in the 9th arrondissement, which is one of my favorites. It's a real neighborhood, with sandwich shops, hardware stores, and ordinary-people clothes outlets. This means no tourist-trap prices: you can buy a coffee, or a liter bottle of water to carry along with you, or normal stuff like toothpaste, without feeling raped. Yet you're still in the city, and only a short metro or bus ride from anywhere. Plus, the ninth is still French enough to feature excellent cheese and wine places and boulangeries, including the outstanding Maison Landemaine (f), which is worth a detour.

I didn't do much sightseeing, except for the giant Monet exhibition in the Grand Palais. Stunning, if only because it featured an enormous collection of Monets in one place. The winter paintings were the big revelation to me; I didn't know he'd done so many and such fine ones. The exhibition space itself is miserable: blocked off from natural light, cramped, and crowded. The great water lily cycles weren't shipped in, and there's no space that would have done them justice anyway. Still, there are many other large late canvases, and it's more Monets than you'll ever see in one place again. Buy your ticket in advance and go during the afternoon. I also attempted to visit the  Musee des Lunettes and Lorgnettes Pierre Marly (f), only to find that it's gone, having been replaced by an Audemars Piguet shop.

But mostly I strolled around. Here are a few pictures; the hover text has more info for the curious:


Square Moncey Army of One
Store Mannequin Rue de Clichy
Emerging from Metro Place de Clichy
Psycho Knife Rack

Scaffolding Rue de Clichy
Storefront Fumisterie Cavallari, Faubourg St. Denis
Man Smoking Cigar and Typing on Laptop Rue St. Honore
"Oh No -- You Again!"
Leprechaun Man Entering Olympia Theatre
Two Men on Subway
Boo Night Evening Dress Store

Escalator Repair Gare du Nord

View down Street Grate Place de Clichy

5 thoughts on “Paris: Leprechauns, Mannequins, Giant Machines, Disappearing Museums

  1. > I was in Paris last week
    The banterist was last month. I take it that you didn’t drive? He did:

    …Having driven a lot in France I have learned that should you require some modicum of courtesy – someone letting you cut in, perhaps – you are doomed. French drivers would run over a classroom’s-worth of schoolchildren rather than let you pull out in front of them. No mercy.

    He likes ’em French anyway.

    re: this–did you ask for permission? To the girls persons in the background, that is? No, not to the potential serial rapists in front. If you didn’t, Cohu might want to send you down there.

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  2. Dammit Moehling, why did you have to out me?

    I thought by putting two males in the foreground, I would be able to distract the viewer from my lecherous male gaze on the wanton cochonnes in the background. (Not that they weren’t asking for it: do you see how one of them is shamelessly showing off her bun to all and sundry?).

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  3. In order to avoid undermisstandings and/or ligitation, allow me to clarify a few points:

    (1) I did not, in fact, ask for anyone’s permission before taking the subway photo, although I didn’t try to conceal that I was taking a photo.

    (2) The primary focus of the subway photo was, indeed, the two male humans in the foreground, whose contrasting facial expressions I found amusing/intriguing.

    (3) When I said ‘raped’, I was in fact speaking figuratively, as in “You’re seriously expecting me to pay 4 and a fizzucking half fizzucking euros for a completely normal tube of toothpase!? Is it some kind of special ‘Parisian’ toothpase that will make your goddam teeth irresistible to chambermaids or something??! Because it sure as shit doesn’t look like it!” (cue security guards).

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